Friday, June 29, 2007

What Cars Do They Use?

There are seven cars most commonly used for drifting. The first is the AE86 Levin/Trueno (referred to as a Hachi-Roku), because of it's rear wheel drive lay-out and the fact that it's relatively inexpensive it is probably the most common drifting car. The second and third are the Silvia S13 and S14, which come in two different models: the turbocharged K's and the non-turbo Q's. Because of their high horse power and free-revving enginges they are excellent drifting cars. The third is the 180SX, related mechanically to the Silvia, the only difference is in the body style and the fact that is lighter and has a better front/rear balance ratio. The fifth is the FC3S RX-7. I believe that this would be a more popular pick among drifters if it was not as problematic as it is. The Cefiro is another excellent drifting car. It has a powerful RB20DET engine and good handling characteristics. The last is the Laurel which is also powered by the RB20DET. . Another good drifting car is the Skyline GTS-T which you don't see very often. It has a rear wheel drive layout and boasts a 260hp engine. A car you also don't see very often, but is the epitome of a drifting car, is the Sil-Eighty. It is a hybrid of a Silvia and a 180SX, either with a Silvia S13 front end and a 180SX back or the opposite. Because of their rising popularity Nissan started manufacturing the Sil-Eighty last year.

Where Do They Drift?


There are three places where drifting occurs. The first and probably the most popular is in the mountains (Tohge). Drifters flock to them because they are realtively desolate with few people and they have perfect groups of S turns to test a drifters abilities. This is usually where you will find the hardcore drifters driving Hachi-Roku's without bumpers. The second is what I like to call the docks, but it is also done in isolated parking lots. This is where drifters learn or warm up for the mountains. Last but not least is the circuits. This is where competitions are held and contestants are judged on a specific group of turns on a 100 point scale. Circuits are very popular but are usually only open one day a week (Sunday or Saturday) and you have to pay to get in.

Who Does It?

On the average it is men in their early to late twenties, but more and more often you will see girls participating. There are some older men who do it such as Keiichi Tsuchiya (the drift king) who is in his fifties.

How is it Done?


There are two ways to start a drift. The first is the clutching technique. When approaching a turn the driver will push in the clutch and shift his car into second gear. Then rev the engine up to around 4000-5000 rpm (it all depends all the model of the car being used) and then slightly turn away from the turn and then cut back towards it hard while at the same time popping the clutch and causing the rear wheels to spin. At this point the drifter has a loss of traction and is beginning to slide around the curve. Now comes the hard part. You have to hold the drift until the next turn. To do this you must keep your foot on the accelerator while at the same time adjusting your car with the steering wheel so you don't spin out. It's not as easy as it sounds. Then as the drifter reaches the end of the turn and approaches the next turn which is in the opposite direction he must cut the wheel in that direction and in some cases, if the previous drift was to slow and they start to regain traction, they must pop the clutch again to get the wheels spinning. And that is how you drift a rear wheel drive car.The second technique is used by a few drifters in rear wheel drives, but is the only way you can really drift a front wheel drive. You have to use the side brake. A front wheel drive can not whip it's tail out because the tires are being driven in the front as opposed to the rear. So when approaching a turn you pull the side brake to cause traction loss. And the rest is pretty much the same except that it's much harder to take more than one turn with a front wheel driver .

Drifting Explained!


It seems as if the drifting fever is catching on here in America so Street Racing has asked Ryan Stevens of Velocity Racing Team Japan to give us an in-depth explanantion of the art.



  • What Is Drifting?

Basically, drifting is getting your car sideways down a road. It doesn't sound very hard does it? Sounds a lot like power sliding huh? Well it isn't. It's much more complex. Instead of a drifter causing a drift and then countering to straighten out, he will instead over-counter so his car goes into another drift. That is the reason many drifters do it in the mountains, because there are many sharp turns strung together. So in essence a good drifter has the ability to take five or six opposing turns without having traction at any point in time.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

*Warnings

  • Suspension parts are generally very dirty, and they can be extremely hot. Always allow the vehicle to cool down for at least 4 hours before attempting an inspection.
  • Any suspected tire or suspension problem should be looked at right away. It could render the vehicle uncontrollable or unusable.

*Tips

  • There should be no detectable play in any part of your suspension system. Finding this usually indicates a problem.
  • On cars without rack and pinion steering, the suspension should be greased every time your vehicle has the tires changed or rotated, or every 10,000 - 15,000 miles.
  • Press downward with your body weight on one corner of the vehicle. If it bounces more than once, the shock or strut is probably worn and needs replacement soon.

How to Inspect Your Suspension System






  1. Get into the car and drive. Turn the radio down and listen to the car. A noise may lead you in the right direction and show you where to start your search. A roaring sound may indicate a stuck bearing or a stuck brake shoe. Rattling on a bump may result from a dry bearing or a loose suspension part (which may be simple to tighten up on your own, provided that torque specifications are followed). A "clunk" may be a sign of your suspension needing grease, a bad ball joint, or a bad strut.


  2. Try to really "feel" the car. A vibration in your steering wheel suggests a problem in the front of the car (most likely in the steering linkage). It may be a tie rod end or a bushing in the car's control arms. Seat vibration suggests a problem in the back of the car. It may be a wheel bearing or a runout condition in a tire.


  3. Once you think you know where the problem is, park the car and let it cool. Grab your gloves and safety glasses. If you choose to lift the vehicle, put the car on a flat surface and use the proper supports. NEVER rely on the jack alone to support your vehicle, and never use bricks or lumber to hold your vehicle up. Use proper jack stands. Now you can get under your vehicle in the suspect area and get to work.


  4. Be sure to know what you are looking at. Many suspension parts can be diagnosed by grabbing or rotating the part. For example, the tie rod ends, the Pitman arm, the idler arm, and other parts of the steering linkage. As for wheel bearings, bushings, and tires, you will need to have the wheels off the ground.


  5. Tires are frequently the main culprit in these "not-so-good vibrations", due to different degrees of tire runout (such as the tire being shaped liked an egg, or the tire having a bulge effect in the side). With the tire off of the ground, spin the wheel and look at it head on. You may be able to see that the tire shows the above symptoms. However, you cannot always see this with the naked eye. While you have the tire in the air, grip the top and bottom of the tire. Wiggle the tire back and forth. If the tire shows signs of play, you have bad (or dry) bearings, or a bad tie rod end. You may also want to check to see that the lug nuts are not loose.


  6. If you can't find anything through this basic inspection, you may need to take your car to a professional mechanic, where the proper diagnostic tools can be used.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

How to Race Your Car


Some people like it fast. This article reveals the secrets to racing your car on a track.

  1. Find a race track. Racing your car on public roads is dangerous and illegal. You will also have a lot more fun on a track that is made for speed and safety.
  2. Get schooled. Call the race track and ask when they will be hosting a "Driver's Education" event or when it will be open for the public. You should not race your car until participating in a Driver's Education event. If the track knows of none, search on the Internet for "motorsports clubs" in your area.
  3. Perform a safety check. On the day of your first race, check all of the mechanics of your car including oil (which should be topped off), tire pressure (a few PSI lower than normal), tire tread, steering fluid, brake fluid and brakes. If you are not experienced in doing a safety check on your car, take it to a mechanic and tell the mechanic you plan on racing the car. When you get to the track, check the tire pressure and oil again. Look under "Things You'll Need" (below) for a list of items to bring to the track.
  4. Learn the rules. Every event has different rules. One common rule is a prohibition on passing, among the most dangerous of racing moments. Find out the rules from the event organizer.
  5. See the track. Feel the track. Be the track. On the track, go around twice at a normal rate of speed to get the lay of the land. You will need to know when curves and other features are coming. Do a drive-through with a teacher if at all possible.
  6. Track to curb. Once you start racing as a novice, you will generally want to stay as far to the side as possible. Stay to the side opposite to the next turn in the track. For example, if the next turn is moving the track to the left, you will stay far right with you right wheels almost to the very edge of the road.
  7. Turn. Turn. Turn. Knowing when to begin a turn is an important part of racing your car. This depends on many factors including speed and angle. The most advantageous turns are started at a point where your car can make as straight a shot as possible to the new angle of the track. This is one reason why you are tracking to the outside before going into your turn. You are then braking rapidly and then turning as directly as possible into the new curve of the track, going from the opposite edge of the track to the mouth of the coming curve. The more straight distance between your vehicle and the mouth of the curve, the less you will need to slow down; hence tracking from far right to a left curve in this example.
  8. Learn how to Brake. Rather than braking incrementally when going into a curve, it is best to be going as fast as you are prepared to and to then brake fast. This does not mean slamming on your brakes to the point where you could go into a spin (a common mistake) but it does mean knowing when to brake at the last possible moment. This, too, is acquired knowledge and so you should start off braking earlier rather than later. A teacher familiar with the track can tell you exactly when you should start braking and turning and even where your car should be positioned going into turns.
  9. How to be Passed. If you are driving under "No Pass" rules, this usually means that passing is still allowed if consent is given. Ask first. If this is the case, ask for the signal to show your consent. You should not be doing a lot of passing (or any passing) as a novice but you should be getting passed often. When you see a driver approaching rapidly, the driver may well be looking for your signal. It is important to be courteous by giving this signal whenever it is safe to do so. This signal is usually an arm point out straight to the left if you wish the driver to pass to your left or, if to the right, your arm out the window and bent over the roof pointing to your right. Give the signal clearly with your arm fully extended. Immediately upon giving the signal, make sure your car behaves as if it is ready to allow passage on the side you indicated. Do not point right and then track right. Stay in your line of travel. Only give a passing signal on straightaways.
  10. Chill out. The last run is called a "cool-down" lap because you are cooling down the brakes, which, by now, may be hot enough to melt rubber. Go slow and try not to use your brakes at all.
  11. Steer correctly. When you are driving, position your hands at 3:00 and 9:00. This will give you the best response time and best posture at high speeds.
  12. Keep your windows down. Keep both front windows down. This is necessary so you can signal a pass and arguably safer in crashes where the glass breaking would otherwise cause injury.
  13. Learn and be mindful of the flags. While most tracks attach the same meaning to each flag, there is some local variation. Use this paragraph as a guide but be sure to check with the event organizer. The following will usually apply:
  • A solid green flag means that the warm-up lap has ended and that passing may commence (when passing is allowed and then only according to rules of consent).
  • A blue flag with a diagonal yellow stripe means that you need to allow the car behind you to pass. This is usually only shown when you have already failed to do the right thing without request. At the next passing zone, give the signal and hold your line.
  • A stationary yellow means that there is some type of danger ahead. Slow down and use caution.
  • A waving yellow means that there is a disabled car on the track. Slow down and prepare to go off your line to avoid the car.
  • A flag with alternating yellow and red vertical stripes means that there is debris on the track (e.g., an oil slick). Slow down and watch for debris on the road.
  • A black flag means that there is something wrong with your car. If the black flag is shown at all flag stations, it means that all cars are being called back to the pit, usually because there has been a crash or there is something else obstructing the track. Safely slow your vehicle, indicate to the flagger that you have seen the flag and pull into the pits for instruction from the trackmaster.
  • A red flag means you must stop your car immediately. Brake slowly and be aware that another car may be behind you. Come to a stop, preferably off to the side. Stay still and stay in your car. There may be emergency vehicles entering the track. Wait for instruction.
  • A black flag with a yellow meatball means that the run group is about to end. Proceed through the checkered flag and slow to a cool-down la
    Chill out. The last run is called a "cool-down" lap because you are cooling down the brakes, which, by now, may be hot enough to melt rubber. Go slow and try not to use your brakes at all.